The function of fashion
You might already be familiar with my Matthew Zorpas obsession, it began over two years ago...
During the SS11 shows it developed into a full-fledged love affair. Okay, that's a lie. It wasn't a love affair at all... but I did realize I wanted Matthew to be in my life forever. He's the kind of person you just can't get enough of. Charismatic and endearing, he makes you want to be a better person. The Liria Pristine & Jillian Carrozza neckpiece he wore that season still gives me goosebumps whenever I see it. Matthew loves supporting new designers and for the AW11 shows he stepped the experimentation level up a notch. My favorite look from that season though was definitely the simplest: a MariosAlexander jacket and waistcoat combination worn with a pair of black skinny jeans. Swoon. For SS12 I didn't have the chance to shoot all of Matthew's looks but one very incredible cloud print suit made it into my roundup of favorite boys from the streets of LFW.
Nowadays Matthew's teaching 'The Business of Luxury' module at Instituto Marangoni, preparing the wardrobe for a British film, and is working on a product design that's going to be launched by London Collections: Men in June. Not only that, he seems to have found his fashion stride. He's still wearing incredible pieces from new designers but now in a more understated way. Look quickly and it appears as though he's wearing something regular but on closer inspection it's clear that Matthew's outfits are anything but ordinary.
These are my two favorite looks that Matthew wore during LFW SS12. Yes, the colour combination probably has something to do with it. Literally, make anything in grey and I will fall head-over-heels for it. But I also love that both looks are tailored but still manage pack an unexpected fashion punch. Too often it's expected that in supporting new designers one must adhere to a certain type of aesthetic - to embrace the designs almost necessitates losing one's own personal sense of style. To wear bold pieces in an effortless way that's practical is really difficult to pull off.
Matthew manages to achieve this balance. He also wears pieces that challenge traditional conceptions of function. On the left, for example, he wears a cropped knit layered over a suit jacket - an unheard of sartorial choice (when was the last time you saw a businessman running for a taxi with a jumper worn over his suit?!). It looks incredible though and is actually really functional. With an overcoat you'd completely lose the suit but this knit offers a really awesome alternative to 'normal' outerwear. I need. one. in. my. life. Matthew's second outfit includes a pair of trousers with wide panels that hang vertically from the waist. Whenever he stood still it looked as though he was wearing a floor skimming skirt. In reality though it's way more practical - I'm thinking removable panels would make for the ultimate in multi-purpose dressing. Bizarrely that day we saw a look at Daks that had similar panels attached to the sides of a dress... holla, this is one silhouette watch.
Never one to shy away from making an entrance, Matthew also embraced a few bolder looks during the week as well. This head-to-toe printed suit with matching shirt was one of my favourites. The pattern channels a comic book kapow sort of electric vibe which I love. Embracing the light and fun side of fashion is what getting dressed should be about. Any item that makes you question how you view the clothes you wear, or that simply makes you happy, is definitely the sort of piece that should be embraced and celebrated.
Colour pop it.
Currently loving: unexpected pops of colour (especially if it's yellow), worn out backpacks, these Dr Martens, and the fact that Spring finally seems to have landed. It's still a bit chilly in London but this combination feels like the perfect way to nod to the coming season while avoiding the tragic English trap of wearing bare legs on the first day the sun shines (which inevitably ends in tears once it sets).
Photos featuring the ever stylish Matthew Zorpas.
London Fashion Week: Day 3
Seeing as it was Sunday and all, it only seemed appropriate to have a bit of a lie in this morning. Actually, I didn't get to bed until 5am because I'm developing a bit of laptop overload insomnia... and the birds on Baker Street will not stop chirping. Like right now, for example, it's 2am and they are at it. Why? Anyway, took it quite easy today. Went to two shows, showed off some crazy shoes my friend Charlie May made (more on that later), and tried to avoid freezing to death. London is so cold right now and there is an unyielding mist hanging in the air... tragic for any fashionista attempting to have a good hair day or wear stilettos (luckily, I never try to do either).
12:30 - Masha Ma
Last year, Masha's first collection was incredible but this year it only got better. The light milky colour palette teamed with fire engine red boots was such an original combination. A sense of overflowing origami remained present but it was taken to a new level and incorporated into slick leather pieces. Skirts were straight, fitted and midi length... one model was so restrained she had to walk with the most baby of steps. Rather than looking awkward though it resembled the way a geisha might teeter down the street. The entire collection was stunning and there were a whole host of items I left wishing I could pull straight off the model and wear out the door.
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2:15 - Charlie Le Mindu
The line for this show stretched all the way around the building and most of the people waiting, for an hour in the rain, were turned away. If you aren't familiar with Charlie's work it might come as quite a shock. He sent the first model down the runway naked with fake blood dripping down her body. The sound of pigs being slaughtered was blasted through the room to the point that it was physically painful and, while this might all sound a bit disconcerting, personally I thought it was impossible to leave without feeling a sense of serious wonderment. It felt more like a work of art than a catwalk show - a work of art that, understandably so, isn't quite everyone's cup of tea. Charlie has famously dressed Lady Gaga in outfits made entirely of hair. This collection, for me, translated into something that is more transferrable than just that: the incorporation of painfully dark elements coupled with a stark ethereal innocence.
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The Buzz
There were a lot of big shows taking place today (Acne, Mulberry, Vivienne Westwood, Topshop Unique...) that were at locations away from the main British Fashion Council location. This meant people weren't actually hanging around Somerset House and, because sadly I don't have a limo (uhh... or even taxi), to chauffeur me around London all day, there weren't as many people to shoot. That, plus numb fingers that made pressing buttons on cameras difficult, made for slightly slim pickings street style speaking. The tactical layering going on though is pretty impressive. All hoods are pulled up, cardigans doubled on two thick, and thermal underwear is secretly sitting under even the most incredible of outfits. Hot on everyone's lips, apart from the weather, included the question of why Alexa Chung wasn't at Mulberry this morning and whether the BFC could possibly squeeze any more blue rubbish bins into the area surrounding the main tent.
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See you in a few hours for what I wore.
London Fashion Week: Day 2
Woke up this morning to the sound of rain pounding on the window. Slept in and then headed to Somerset House while feebishly attempting to juggle a huge clutch bag, coffee, umbrella, and oyster card. Arrived to find the photogs were out in monumental force: Garance Dore, the Sartorialist, Altamira, Jak & Jil, Vanessa Jackman, Street Peeper... 'why hello, is it me you're looking for?' I asked as I sauntered past flipping my hair. Highlights of the day included being photographed by Vanessa (who I love), meeting the lovely girl behind State of Sunday, and being introduced to Mary Katrantzou's mother by Matthew (I said, 'you must be so proud'... uh, duh). Spent most of the day getting soaked out in the courtyard (though I did go to the J. JS Lee and John Rocha show - photos below) and topped it all off by having a big burger and vanilla milkshake at Byrons for dinner.
The Buzz
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12:30 - J. JS Lee
Seriously, it's a wee bit too late for extensive amounts of words but let's just say that J. JS Lee was good... and has got me trying to figure out how I can attach a jacket to the front of my shirt, while searching ebay for long grey dresses and strands of pearls.
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3:15 - John Rocha
Abbey Lee Kershaw, who didn't walk a single show in NY, opened and closed the John Rocha show. Insanely beautiful. The same goes for the entire collection. The slightly sheer textured details on the black dresses were some of my favourite details.
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Bye for now, need my pillow.
People featured in this post include: Tali Lennox (ph1/3), Matthew Zorpas (ph7), Peony Lim (ph14), Kit Lee (ph18/19), Sandra Hagelstam (ph20), Daniella Maiorano (ph21), Nadia Sarwar (ph22), Imogen Roy (ph23), Shini Park (ph25).
London Fashion Week: DAY 1
Currently, I'm riding off three hours of sleep and a six piece chicken mcnugget... oh, the glamour of attending fashion week. It certainly has it's highs (Marcus Wilmont recognizing me?) and its lows (severely blistered feet) but overall there is just a bizarre sense of delirium that sort of lingers over your head, forcing you to say ridiculous things like, 'Do you have tickets to BBQ?' (Kit). So here is the deal pumpkins, last year I failed to post on loads of shows I attended because the backlog of images was just insanely overwhelming, so I'm doing things a bit different this time. Each day, you'll get a highlight of my favourite moments from all the shows and all the action going on at, and around, the glorious Somerset House (I say glorious very loosely, it was so cold today and heavy rain is being forecasted for the next three days). If there's anything super special I'll do a separate post on it at another time but for now I just want to bring you as much of what is going on as humanly possible. If there is anything in particular you want to see more of just let me know and I'll try to get it... unless it's a nipple slip on the catwalk that you're after, in which you came to the wrong site.
Buzz
The hotly pursued Matthew Zorpas was on form as per usual, only this year he has stepped things up a notch and has a camera crew following him around to each venue. It is mental and slightly intoxicating to be around. 'Matthew Zorpas: the film'... it does have a certain ring to it. Other things that caused excitement included: Caroline Mode and her gorgeous yellow Celine tote bag shooting first thing in the morning, Face Hunter looking unusually bright eyed, and the eerily omnipresent power of Twitter (Daniella was likely typing, 'omg... so glad to have Starbucks finally')
9:00am: Paul Costelloe
Personally, I thought the Costelloe show kicked off fashion week well. It had an inherently youthful and playful feel to it. Bouncy skirts, colour blocked yellow and pink suits, plus a print that resembled Christmas wrapping paper (come on people, this is an Autumn Winter collection after all, what's not to like about that??). The hair was channeling a bit of a Topshop Unique Spring 2011 vibe and the collection sort of reminded me of Mulberry's shapes... but overall, I thought there were some sweet pieces, and it was all very wearable.
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1:15 pm: Corrie Nielsen
This was my favourite show. Corrie, who won Fashion Fringe last year, put on a mind-blowingly atmospheric production. From the music, to the speed at which the models walked, everything was spot on and actually quite moving. It almost felt like it was from a different world altogether.
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3:45 pm: Aminaka Wilmont
Decidedly darker than their previous collection, Aminaka Wilmont sent down a slew of fabrics that were a mishmash of different animal prints with gorgeous leather jackets and soft knits. Together it had a coherent vibe that channelled a forbidden and enraged creature from the jungle (cue yellow eyed models). I did backstage photography and also had a little chat with Marcus Wilmont after the show... but will save that for tomorrow. For now, I'm off to bed to get a few hours of sleep before it all starts up again tomorrow.
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View each designers entire collection on the British Fashion Council's website here: Paul Costelloe, Corrie Nielsen, Aminaka Wilmont.
Please Note: all photography is my own. If you'd like to use any images please feel free but credit accordingly, because otherwise you are stealing, which isn't cool. Unless, of course, you fancy being made a fool like Wynona Ryder when she was caught shoplifting... just sayin.
STYLE ICON: MATTHEW ZORPAS...
Matthew Zorpas is quickly becoming a widely recognizable style icon.
Voted second best dressed man in Britain by Esquire he is a magnanimous force. Each day at London Fashion Week he donned a new mesmerizing ensemble, sometimes multiple, and couldn't make two steps across the courtyard at Somerset House without being stopped by a photographer. It's clear why: not only does Matthew stand out from the crowds, he's a firm supporter of new generation designers. Each time he is snapped the designer's card is handed out to the photographer so that the outfit he is wearing can be properly credited. Having only lived in London for four years, after moving over from his native Cyprus, you'd think Zorpas had lived here his whole life. This boy knows everybody, or better yet, everybody knows him. Despite his growing recognition he is achingly down to earth and so much fun to be around. Not the slightest bit fussed over which row he sits, or even if he stands, he's always up for trying to wiggle his way into a show and, if you're lucky, will drag you along for the ride. He's got drive too and is in the process of setting up his own PR company that will support, that's right, new generation designers. It's a worthy cause and, if the commotion he manages to stir everywhere he goes is anything to go by, this boy is one to watch.
Day 1: Waistcoat and trousers (denim waist built in) by Harold Lunde Helgesen.
Day 2: (Outfit 2) by Thorbjørn Uldam
Day 3: Liria Pristine & Jillian Carrozza neckpiece HLHtrousers.
Follow Matthew on Twitter here.