LFW Spring 2018
London is nothing if not unpredictable.
It has been a few weeks since the spring 2018 shows ended but I want to take a moment to look back at London. Why London instead of New York, Milan or Paris? It's where I first experienced fashion week. London designers were the first to invite me to their shows. London will always be, for me, the expression of fashion in the way I understand it best. London champions underdogs. I'm grateful for that. It's experimental. It doesn't conform.
utility |yo͞oˈtilədē|: the state of being useful, profitable, or beneficial
Utility isn't something I ever really associated with London Fashion Week. Sure, LFW is of course profitable. Of course, it's beneficial and useful to some degree. But the designs themselves? If I had to pick one word to describe them as a whole? It wouldn't be utility. For me, the trademark of fashion in London has always sort of been it's lack of practicality. It is wild and avänt gärde. Sometimes, it's offensive. It can be difficult to digest. But it pushes the envelop. It inspires. It breathes youth and creativity and beauty into a world that can sometimes feel rigid and dark. And the amazing thing? People in London actually embrace it.
Tina Leung & Susie Lau, both in Molly Goddard - shot by Phil Oh for Vogue.com
This season though, the thing that stood out to me about London Fashion Week (as I watched it from afar) was that it felt decidedly more utilitarian.
Some of my favorite designers were the ones that were really wearable. I've always loved Eudon Choi but this season his collection was one of my favorites. It was packed full of separates perfectly suited for a day at the office or a stroll down the promenade. Whether you're fashion-forward or style-delayed, his collection is understandable - especially when you break apart each look and consider the pieces for what they are alone. Anybody could wear it. You. Me. Your grandma. I literally want to wear everything from the collection. Right. Now. Especially the pink suit (gasp!).
So many designers presented collections that felt useful, essential and easy-to-wear. Does this represent a shift in the industry? It's not minimalist or normcore. It's something else. It's looking at a catwalk and thinking you could actually wear what you see. You could wear it to walk your dog or pick up the groceries. You could wear it to class or to pick up your kids after school. There is beauty and attention-to-detail and a magic sparkle that emanates from the clothes but there is something else. There is a use. And you don't have to squint or work hard to figure out the use. It's glaringly obvious. The clothes are wearable.
To see what other people thought of the collections, I reached out to a few of my favorite people and asked them for their favorite look from London. Their responses reinforced what I had been thinking. London fashion is embracing practicality but there will always be an element of unexpected surprise that leaves you starry eyed and dreaming of another world. So yes, it seems London is embracing utility but there are still wild cards. ✨
Joseph
"I loved this super clean look inspired by girl-scout uniforms, which was given a luxurious twist with Alighieri's giant silver hoops."
J.W.Anderson
"Underwhelming but the devil's in the details, as it usually is with this designer."
Gareth Pugh
"Architectural full tower outfits reminiscent of dark sci-fi. Particularly the opera scene from The 5th Element."
Runway photos from Vogue.com
LFW UPDATE
Well, well, well. Day 2 of London Fashion Week has just come to a close and I'm still alive (insert praise hand emoji here). I'm sitting on my bed in my sweats contemplating going out to find McDonalds. Chic, no?
The main news here is that it's super-insanely-out-of-this-world windy. Also, don't be fooled by the photo, it's been raining like mad. I'm talking horizontal madness that soaks you to the core. Oh, and there are also some fashion shows going on. I guess we should talk about that too? Yesterday I was reminded of why London is the most amazing city in the world for fashion. There is so much diversity and, just when you think you've seen it all, someone goes and does something completely unexpected (whole post on this coming soon). Rather than try to edit the thousands of photos I'm taking each day I thought I'd just share a few Instagram snaps to show you what I've been getting up to. Basically it involves eating and drinking as much as possible and catching up with friends who I really only get to see twice a year (sob).
Lots more updates to come soon, most likely once I've caught up on my beauty sleep. If you aren't already, follow me on Instagram for (probably too many) updates throughout the day. Find me, where you'd probably look anyway: @stylecrusader
PINK COATS
Recently, I declared on Twitter that if one more person mentioned a pink coat I would throw up. It has to be one of the trendiest items of the season. It has popped up in countless magazine editorials and has featured heavily on the pages of many a fashion blog. But, I've finally come across one I like.
Recently, I declared on Twitter that if one more person mentioned a pink coat I would throw up. It has to be one of the trendiest items of the season. It has popped up in countless magazine editorials and has featured heavily on the pages of many a fashion blog. It's bold and daring and completely counter-intuitive. Pink is for spring, right, not winter.
But, that's sort of what makes it great. Getting dressed should be fun and nothing sucks more in the middle of winter than putting on a dull coat everyday. So enters the statement coat to save the day. Personally I prefer the plaid, pinstriped, and fluffy options... but for a moment I'm going to tip my hat in the direction of the pink coat because there is something wonderful about it. The fact that it makes absolutely no sense is exactly why it works.
Irina, from A Portable Package, wore hers at fashion week over a double denim ensemble. Perfectly nonchalant, she has popped her collar and pushed up her sleeves, and made the coat resemble a dressing gown. I like that it's a bit crumpled and disheveled. The red bag is unexpected and those plastic mules are heavenly.
So, just for today I'll admit I might have been wrong about the whole barfing thing. I'm joining the masses in admiration for the pink coat.
Remembering my first fashion show
I remember the first fashion show I ever went to. It wasn’t good. In fact, it was terrible. It was in the main British Fashion Council tent, I stood at the back on my tip-toes straining to see. But I was so excited to be there and by the end of it I was fighting back tears. Despite the fact that it was horrible, I thought the whole thing was absolutely beautiful. That hectic rush before the lights are dimmed. The plastic being peeling from the catwalk. The general hushing noise of people trying to get quiet. That moment when the music starts and everyone anxiously awaits the first look.
Going to a fashion show is an experience. If you’re willing, it will move you, change you.
That night, it didn’t matter what the clothes looked like. I was being introduced to a world that would suck me in. Over the past few years my zeal has ebbed and flowed. It started with sheer enthusiasm. After each show, when asked what I thought, I’d gush that I loved it. But I was never quite sure what I loved or why. Did I want to wear the clothes? Would they look good in an editorial? Would the clothes sell well in a boutique? Were they changing the direction of fashion? Pushing the boundaries? Revolutionizing the industry? I didn’t know.
All I knew was that I felt something, experienced something.
You can appreciate a show for different reasons. There’s the art, the craft, the details, the structure. There’s the development of a designer, the way their collections change over time, the way they relate to their customer, the relevance of their brand. There’s the editorial side, the trends, the influence, the sales.
There isn’t just one way to decide when a designer has been successful.
Regardless of that, there’s one thing I know and that’s when I like something – I mean really like something. It’s not because I’m an editor looking to put together a high fashion shoot for a magazine. I don’t own a boutique, I’m not a buyer. I’m not a writer covering the shows for any major publication. I’m really just a girl with a somewhat sick fascination with fashion, observing it from the outside. I’m wondering what to wear and how to wear it. For this reason – the J JS Lee Spring 2014 show really spoke to me.
It blew my mind a little and it’s not because it’s anything revolutionary. Quite the contrary, it’ssimple and uncomplicated. It looks good. It’s wearable. Oh baby, is it wearable. The trousers are the perfect shape (slight kick at the bottom) and hit at just the right spot on the leg. The colours are (wait for it…) a mix of black and white (yeah! yeah! yeah!), slightly faded aqua blue and pale pink. THAT pink. I know, okay, I know. It’s EVERYWHERE. I’m actually kind of sick of it already but somehow Jackie’s version doesn’t piss me off. Maybe because, let’s face it, pale pink isn’t the most practical colour fora cocoon coat. It makes much more sense in separates and a little basic dress. The geometric print, the contrasting collar on that white shirt, the curved hem, the sleeve that hits just above the elbow – it’s these little details that make the collection so strong. They aren’t in your face. They don’t scream ‘look at me!’ They’re just there. It’s their subtlety that lends them strength. Plus, these pieces are classic. They’re staples. Yet despite that, they aren’t boring and they feel totally fresh. That, ladies and gentleman, is what fashion is all about. I can honestly say, I love it.
p.s. I want every pair of sandals… in every colour.
Photos via Vogue.
Backstage at Lucas Nascimento
When I arrived backstage at the Topshop venue for the Lucas Nascimento show I was absolutely soaking wet. Such was this past London Fashion Week, it rained every day. Coincidental then that the theme for Lucas's show should be 'getting ready'. This translated into the hair and makeup in an obvious way. The models were to look as though they had just stepped out of the shower - wet hair, bare faced, lashes clumped together from the water.
When I arrived backstage at the Topshop venue for the Lucas Nascimento show I was absolutely soaking wet. Such was this past London Fashion Week, it rained every day. Coincidental then that the theme for Lucas's show should be 'getting ready'. This translated into the hair and makeup in an obvious way. The models were to look as though they had just stepped out of the shower - wet hair, bare faced, lashes clumped together from the water.
No doubt I resembled this same sight upon my arrival - only a less glamorous version.
Unfortunately the ghd team had already finished the hair by the time I arrived (bloody efficient they are) but I did get to see the finishing touches being done to the makeup by the people at MAC. There is nothing quite so glamorous as wedging yourself in between a wall of makeup artists and squeezing your camera in between them to get the perfect shot. Luckily I didn't knock anyone's hand.
// ERDEM SS14 //
The Erdem Spring 2014 show consisted of a predominately black and white colour palette. There was a lot of embellishment, in the form of lace, feathers and beading, plus a healthy serving of sheer. The strict collars added a masculinity to the otherwise very feminine collection. Standout pieces included the tough biker jackets, a perfect contrast to the lady-like dresses, and the shoes which brilliantly incorporated key details from the collection. I'll take the flat pair in both black and white please.
MY FAVOURITE #LFW MOMENTS SO FAR...
Good morning!
It's that time again, London Fashion Week is here! To celebrate the beginning of all things fashion (sore feet, no food, wet hair) I put together a little homage to my favourite moments from past seasons. All these photos have appeared on the Style Crusader before but I love them all so much that I think they deserve to be highlighted again. First up is a selection of some of my favourite people that I've shot on the cobblestones of Somerset House.
Next up are some of favourite personal outfits. They include everything from an impeccably chic red Iro jacket to a pair of Charlie May customized platform Doc Martens.
We'll round things off with the shows because that's technically why we're all here in the first place. My favourite will forever be Inbar Spector's AW12 show. It was impossibly beautiful and completely out of this world. A close second though has to be Meadham Kirchhoff's SS12 show. The balloons, the dancers... it was all completely over-the-top and utterly transfixing. Oh, and of course, the green sequined covered model at Fyodor Golan still holds a special place in my heart.
p.s. I am aware that hashtags don't actually work in blog titles but I'm getting in the social media mood, alright? Follow me on Twitter and Instagram for regular fashion week updates throughout the day.
ON LOVING YOU SOLELY...
This is the only photo that really matters from the Topshop Unique show - it displays all the best bits of the collection. A swingy full pink sequined skirt bounces around and hits at mid-calf. There were lots of trousers that were exactly the same length (I want a pair, desperately). You can just see a hint of the jacket on the model's arm. It's an oversized slouchy number with sleeves that have been turned up. Cropped and wide, it's a shape that showed up on many looks from the collection and will undoubtedly be a popular fit come next autumn. Last, there's the shoes. Oh, the shoes. I love them dearly and have made a mental note of adding them to my imaginary shopping basket. They would do rather nicely on my feetsies comes next Autumn. I like the idea of wearing baby pink in the fall. Normally it's more of a spring colour but Topshop shows it deserves a place in winter too. I couldn't agree with them more on this.
Topshop, you've rocked my world once again.
GET YOUR NIKE ON...
Forget about sky high heels, this season at London Fashion Week the fashionable crowd were all sporting Nike trainers. I'm rubbish when it comes to heels. I'd much rather wear a pair of bright tennis shoes any day. The only problem is choosing which pair to go for. Nike has so many options and they are all customizable. You can choose the colour you want for every part of the shoe. With that much choice I'm left a bit clueless for what to pick. I do know one thing for sure though, this is a trend I can definitely get behind.
COVER ME IN SEQUINS...
I woke up this morning with thoughts of Ashish floating around inside my head - slouchy oversized white shirts and lots of sequins. All the models wore old school white Reeboks. They're so bad that they're somehow good. Ashish is always one of my favourite shows at London Fashion Week. I'd give my little pinky to have one of the oversized sequined T-shirts.
p.s. the scrunchie is clearly making a comeback.
Meadham Kirchhoff SS12
Pastel coloured balloons arched over the catwalk of the Meadham Kirchhoff show this afternoon creating a candy coloured paradise. Before it even began Spice Girls was playing and that was enough to get people cheering. In no way was I prepared for what was about to happen...
To begin, a group of impassioned dancers filled the center of the catwalk. They powdered their chests and applied lipstick before throwing themselves into a wild performance. Like rag dolls their limbs were thrown around into a can-can dance of the most unusual variety. While this was taking place the collection was shown. I struggled to know where to focus (as a result, so did my camera) because there was so much to look at and so much movement.
After the first group scurried off a new set of dancers took to the stage. Only these were young ballerinas and their arrival signaled the beginning of a far more regal and avant-garde collection than what was first shown. It was incredible. A show like nothing I've seen before. It was playful, imaginative, and perfectly executed all at the same time.
LFW Outfit: Day 4
It would be one thing if I had a private car to drop me at the door of every show... I'd wear heels all the time and be fabulous every day. I'd never have a hair out of place. But, the truth is fashion week isn't that easy. You're standing all day, waiting in lines, running after people to shoot and squatting to get the right angle. I'm not complaining - just explaining why my outfits are progressively getting more casual.Wore these maroon Zara trousers that I snatched up for 25 quid. Totally love them. Only got home to find they've split at the side. Umm, Zara?! Get your shizz together. They aren't even too tight (I promise). Have had a lazy morning, need to get myself together and out of the house. It's Meadham Kirchoff and Aminaka Wilmont today and the last day for womenswear.
Wearing: Iro leather vest (My Wardrobe), Zara trousers, Converse, Robinson Pelham jupiter bracelets, LiLiFi leopard clutch, and YSL arty ring.
LFW Outfit: Day 2
Today the weather was topsy turvy - it went back and forth between scorching sunshine and torrential rain all day long. The truth is, heels really aren't for me and so I ditched them and went for what I really like. Hah, that's right: converse. Felt unbelievably comfy today and was happy to act as the balancing chauffeur to everyone wearing impossibly high heels. Accidentally made the mistake of waiting until the end of the day to take photos of my outfit... hence the slightly worn out expression. Whoops.
Wearing: Issey Miyake Pleats Please skirt (purchased from Caritas in Zurich), Iro vest (via My Wardrobe), Converse, American Apparel bag, Weekday bracelet/ring and Bottletop clutch.
What I Wore: Day 4
How adorable are these cat print shorts? Yes, that's right cat print. They are made from really thick cotton and almost feel like a pair of denim shorts. It was such fun wearing these because everyone I spoke to would realize the print mid-converstaion and exclaim, 'that print is amazing!' or something to that effect. They were so ironically uncool that they were cool. Thought I'd dabble in a bit of print clashing and colour popping - two key trends I've noticed from LFW this year.
Wearing: leather jacket by DLUX Collections (this is the softest leather jacket I have ever felt), cat print shorts, leather bag (which I am obsessed with now... it's so Celine) and polka dot jumper all by Paul & Joe(courtesy of Harriet from HPR London), Next tights and vintage Salvatore Ferragamo shoes.
p.s. How did I forget to mention that I've been blogging for Next over fashion week? Check out the posts I've done for them here.
What I Wore: Day 2
Swapped my skinnies for some flares and dabbled in a bit of bright colour for the second day of London Fashion Week. I wanted to be warm so trousers were a must, especially as I could hide my little multi-coloured Happy Socks under the wide leg... no more shivering ankles. Also thought a trench coat was a must and this gorgeous little one by Sonia Rykiel is so sweet and feminine with the little ties at the wrists and shoulder. Topped it all off with this Anton Heunis necklace that I am crazy about.
Wearing: Equipment shirt, J Brand Lovestory jeans (have converted me away from skinnies... something I never thought was possible), Anton Heunis necklace, and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel trench (all My-Wardrobe). Vintage Salvatore Ferragamo shoes and Happy Socks hidden underneath.
Photos by Shini.