Ooo, I always like a good bit of Marni. All the bold prints and easy-peasy-Japanesey dresses. Wait. Err... are these the right photos for this post?
Why yes, yes they are.
When I started flicking through the photos of the Marni AW12 collection I was a bit confused. This doesn't look like Marni, I kept thinking. But I like it, a lot. For starters the colour combos are unreal. They feel like the epitome of anti-winter. Opting for the obvious colour choice is so last season, you know. Why not work your airy-fairy spring shades in a way that works for chilly weather? The sherberty blue and orange look fresh for autumn but stay grounded by the tan, black and grey. I especially like the wearable trouser shapes with creased fronts, dropped waists, elegant sleeve lengths and the utility style belts that pull in the waists of pieces that would otherwise look quite bulky. Oh yeah, it's super wearable and I like it.
Before we take this any further can we please clear up one highly disturbing thing about this collection? The white tights. The last time that I wore white tights I was four - they were awesome and had tiny pink hearts all over them. Since then I have refused to put my legs into white tights. They look ridiculous on grown ups. That was, until now. Now they look smoking hot because Consuelo Castiglioni is a genius and has given them some sort of mod-infused futuristic Star Wars flight attendant vibe. That's right. I said it. Gimme some white tights.
What I loved most about the collection were the pieces that packed an edgier goth-light vibe. That sleeveless shiny leather trench on the far left, for example, is so beautiful. I might need to print out its picture and put it next to my bed... I love it that much. The architectural lines and silhouettes are also wonderful - they create a strong aesthetic without looking the least bit costumey. This is smart. Like most women, I want to nod knowingly towards the fact that curved sunken footballer shoulders are in, not actually look like my shoulders are wide enough to knock someone's eye out. The straight skirts are lush too. I am very into straight skirts. I want to wear them with loose T-shirts now and even looser jumpers in the winter.
Towards the end of the show the feeling changed as richer reds, gold and embellishment were thrown into the mix.
Oh, that embellishment...
It's texture on speed and feels like a million little flowers (or bugs?!) have exploded onto the surface of the fabric. I want to see it up close. I want to know what it would feel like to wear. I want... that little red structured bag. Yum. The whole thing had a very ancient Egypt vibe about it. I like to imagine that my sci-fi flight attendant models accidentally got thrown back in time to Cairo. After coming face-to-face with Cleopatra for the first time, they can't help but board their flight back to Zurich a little changed from the experience. It is at this pivotal moment in the show that the two cultures smack heads. Come on, you have to admit, there's something very Elizabeth Taylor circa 1963 about that look.
This new direction must be, on some level, a reaction to the madness of the H&M collaboration. If you can get the 'Marni look' on a budget at a mega-high-street-store then, surely, the only logical step forward is to mix-it-up and challenge what that look is all about.
Smart move. But the even smarter move is the Cher's closet feeling buy-it-in-advance step the brand is taking...
After all, why put off to tomorrow what you can spend money on today?
This touches on a long debated issue in the fashion world - why is there such a disconnect between 'seasons', what goes into magazines and what can actually be purchased. How often has a fashionista pulled her hair out because, after seeing that #totesamaze pair of shoes in Vogue, called up the producer only to discover... 'they aren't going into production.' Cue violent gnashing of teeth. With sites like Moda Operandi and now, Marni's itself, offering its most loyal customers the chance to buy items immediately after they show, this needn't be a problem. In an age where people are increasingly turning towards faster and faster fashion that's cheaper and cheaper it's important for brands (especially luxury ones) to only produce quantities that will sell. Staying on top of these advances in online sales and marketing is equally vital to a brands success.
More importantly though it gives you the chance to all pull together your resources to buy me those black and gold cross over ankle heels for my birthday - it's not until the end of April, don't worry, no rush on delivery is needed. I'm thinking 2 quid from each and every one of you should just about do it. Come on. They are only £440, that's practically the same price as a pair of boots from Acne and I swear I'd wear them every day. No? Okay. It was worth a shot...
All catwalk images from Style.com
p.s. if you've got a wad of cash in your pocket to burn on Marni AW12 hop over to the site this weekend. After Monday the pre-sale will be removed and you'll have to wait until the fall to get a stab at the action.